Sunday, April 11, 2010
Visits, visits, visits
All in all it's been a jam-packed few weeks and I've really enjoyed exploring more of Belfast with Mac friends and exploring a completely different, wonderful Istanbul.
More soon, hope you're all well!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Food Notes


Kilts Galore

Thursday, March 18, 2010
"Good Guinness, Good Food, Good Craic"
So this past week was St. Patrick's Day (as I'm sure you're well aware) and its a state holiday here which means everyone of all ages was out and about celebrating in their own manner... We passed a bar with a blackboard out front advertising "good Guinness, good food, good craic" which seems to sum up both the day Wednesday and the past few weeks in in the British Isles. Just in case I forgot to mention in a previous post, the term craic is used here like someone in the states would ask what's good? or what's up? For our St. Patty's Day, we went to the city centre, wandered and people watched for a long time before getting some lunch and doing some pub hopping, ending our day with Bishop's Fish and Chips and a drink at the Queen's student union bar. Most of my coworkers seemed to treat the day off like I might treat Veteran's Day or MLK Day- an excuse to catch up on errands and maybe go for a hike or a bike ride. That said, there were definitely plenty of people celebrating with many pints and green enthusiasm.
It's been really hectic at my internship these past two weeks and I've been busy helping my supervisor with a series of projects in specific urban neighborhood renewal areas in Northern Ireland. I've been helping prepare for meetings, gathering images and setting up presentations, as well as compiling notes and images for sketch designs, writing community consultation reports, and learning my way around photoshop. I've also been getting to know my coworkers and indulging in endless cups of tea and scones. My tea and scone intake is definitely becoming an issue, but that's a topic for a different discussion.
On Monday last (as they say), we had our seminar in Belfast and went to Belfast City Council and the Northern Ireland Parliament at Stormont. I think we were all expecting to find the day difficult and frustrating, given preconceived notions of and previous experiences with politicians and political structures. Certain aspects of the day were difficult to accept and process: for example, Stormont is possibly the most inaccessible and uninviting political building I’ve ever seen. The whole place gave off a very controlling vibe and seemed unbelievably disconnected from the rest of the city. On the other hand, we met with 2 Good Relations officers at the BCC who spoke about creating shared spaces, focusing on access and perceptions of safety and ‘cultural value,’ which I found really interesting and physical access and transportation isn’t really something we’ve heard people talk about much here. At Stormont, we were able to speak with 6 representatives or spokespeople from 6 of the 8 (yes 8!) parties in the NI Assembly.
There are 108 MLAs or representatives in the Assembly, which come from 18 districts and represent a total of 1.5 million people. This ratio is pretty high but sort of necessary given the problems in political representation and the fact that NI has a mandated power sharing government. We spoke with reps from the Alliance Party, the Green Party, the DUP, the UUP, Sinn Fein, and the PUP. The Alliance and Green parties are two of the parties that do not have a national leaning or connection while the DUP, UUP, and PUP are Unionist parties and Sinn Fein (along with the SDLP) are Nationalist parties. The role of national identity in politics here is fascinating because in many ways it completely trumps social, economic, and other considerations. The sentiment behind much of the politics, even today, is that people vote along these lines because they don’t want the other guy in power. I could write and write about Stormont and the political system here but this post is already quite long so I’ll spare you. In short, I think we were all pleasantly surprised by the genuine nature and openness of nearly all the politicians we spoke to. While there was certainly a bit of rhetoric being thrown around, many of the individuals actually answered our questions, perhaps a bit surprising. Given how difficult it would be to get a Congress(wo)man or Senator to sit down with 15 foreign students in the States, the opportunity alone was refreshing.
Last weekend, the weather in Belfast was beyond beautiful and while 3 of our flatmates went to Dublin to see (MN hip-hop artist) Brother Ali, the rest of us spent as much time in the sunshine as possible. We went Saturday to the Ulster Museum: a really interesting renovated building, full of exhibits on art, history, and natural history. Always interesting to see how museums talk about local histories, especially when you’re studying that history. Then we ate burritos from our beloved Boojum in the park and had a relaxing evening in the flat. Sunday I went for a long walk by myself along the River Lagan and in some old industrial areas near the City Centre I haven’t explored yet. It was another beautiful day and a very different side of Belfast, which I really enjoyed and look forward to seeing more of. I tried to stop at a pizza place near us that looks potentially promising but it was closed so I went to the Spar and decided to try Sweet Thai Chicken crisps. Exploring another country’s snack foods could be a lifetime occupation in of itself.
Monday we were back in Derry for seminar. This time in the Fountain estate (essentially a tiny, Protestant enclave in the very Catholic, Nationalist Derry) meeting with a man from the community who told us the story of his community and his experience with politics, the police, and the Troubles. The discussion brought together a lot of topics we’ve been floating around including the tension between class and sectarian identities, the role of police, the underdog mentality that both sides seem to hold, and the obstacles to integration and peace in a place like Derry.
The past two days I’ve been helping with a conference for my internship called Grow Our Own, helping local groups think about setting up community farms and gardens. There were some really interesting speakers and it was nice to get out of the office and spend more time in different parts of NI and with my coworkers.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Parking the Beast

Wednesday we had our seminar day and the whole program met up for the day in Belfast; each week we convene either in Belfast or Derry (usually on Mondays) to discuss our experiences, meet with organizations, and of course, ride around in the beast. This week, we went to the WAVE Trauma Center in North Belfast, which works with victims and survivors of the Troubles. After Nigel expertly maneuvered the beast through some very tight spots, we spoke with one of the organization’s leader who lost his wife and father-in-law in 1993 in the (Protestant/Unionist) Shankhill Road Bomb that killed 9 people, including one of the IRA bombers. The event caused quite a controversy because Gerry Adams, the leader of Sinn Fein (the leading Nationalist party), carried the coffin of the IRA bomber who was killed.
We’ve talked a bit about a hierarchy of victims, the idea that not all deaths should be treated the same, and it was really interesting and clarifying to hear this man’s story and opinions on the relationships between victims. It’s truly amazing how many people’s stories we’ve been able to hear; I know each one gives me a whole new set of questions and brings a new depth to my understanding of the Troubles and this society.
After WAVE, we went to Northern Ireland Alternatives, an organization centered around the idea of restorative justice and also one of the HECUA placements. We spoke with some of the leaders of the organization about what restorative justice means and what they do to promote justice at the local level. Then we had a tour of East Belfast, a heavily Protestant/Unionist/Loyalist area, and got to hear a pretty strong Loyalist perspective, one we haven’t heard much from. It was interesting to walk around the neighborhood and hear how socio-economic deprivation affects peoples’ thinking about conflict and division. It was another pretty intense day that ended with a Q&A with a leader of the UVF (a Loyalist paramilitary group).
It’s been really nice having seven roommates having parallel experiences and we’ve definitely had our fair share of bonding moments in the flat and on some really fun city adventures. This weekend we were all in need of some good craic (which is what the locals call ‘a good time’)… Friday we went to a Mexican restaurant, which was basically a Chipotle and so, so delicious even if it wasn’t an Anna’s burrito or a Los Ocampo al pastor taco. We explored a few bars and did some dancing and all really enjoyed ourselves. Yesterday we explored the St. George’s Farmers Market, the City Centre, and Victoria Sq. Mall- it was a beautiful day and a lot of fun to walk around, people watch, and do a little shopping.
Tomorrow we’re off to Derry for a seminar day and then back to work on Tuesday. Last night, Erin (a fellow Mac student and one of my Belfast flat-mates) bought tickets for spring break to go to Istanbul to, among other things, visit our friend Joey! And next weekend I’m off to Edinburgh, Scotland to visit my friend Mary and try some haggis, or something…
Monday, March 1, 2010
Belfast Girl
What’s weird is that now I am in Belfast. And even though we’ve been in N. Ireland basically a month, today was almost as scary a first day as the real first day. Maybe I was just nervous, but I think people in Belfast talk faster than other people I’ve met here, which didn’t help my nerves on my first day of work. The organization I’m working for does landscape architecture and helps communities transform public spaces- all the work they do sounds really interesting and I’m excited to learn more about what they do. Hopefully I’ll also learn more about what I’m going to be doing and get to know the people who work there better. In many ways, its completely different from other places I’ve worked but I’m really excited to learn and hopefully contribute.
The Belfast 8 (Real World Belfast anyone?) moved in yesterday to Stranmillis College which is in South-ish Belfast. We’re about a 15-minute walk from Queen’s University and about 30-40 minutes from the City Center. Our flat is basically one extra-long hallway with bedrooms (and a bathroom for everyone!), a kitchen, a bathtub room, and some other doors that we can’t open. We don’t really have a living room or common space, but we do have a room with just a bathtub so I guess that’s something.
We moved in yesterday afternoon and after Nigel took us to a Tesco-extra (if Super Target and Super Walmart had a baby and it took steroids you’d get Tesco-extra) to stock up on groceries, we tried to fit 8 people’s groceries into a mini-fridge. What is possibly most comical about our flat is that while we have a kind of inadequate fridge, we have a freezer so large we each get a fairly sizeable shelf. Oh well, it’s definitely a funny place but we’re enjoying it so far.
After settling in, we walked to the Botanic neighborhood, which is between Queen’s and the City Center. It’s sort of a hipster/student/yuppy kind of place with hip-looking Indian and Mexican restaurants, a pub called Springsteen’s, a myriad of coffee shops, and plenty of fish and chips places. It sort of reminds me of a lot of places I’ve been- kind of a Coolidge Corner meets Uptown meets Greenwich Village meets Victorian-era Belfast. It’s exciting to walk down streets and see diverse types of people and stores. On today’s walk to the train station, I spotted many a Belfast-hipster and countless teenagers on their way to school in their smart uniforms, which makes them look way older and way cooler than I ever did as a high schooler. I’m already excited for the weekend; hopefully we’ll explore some of the sights and ride the big Ferris wheel next to City Hall (its not as cool or as big as the London Eye but this is Belfast, okay?)
Hey! Where is my mail, people? (Only my mother is exempt from this question- thanks Mommy!)
Friday, February 26, 2010
"A Wee Separate Bit"
It’s been an incredibly challenging and fascinating few weeks and I honestly feel that I’ve learned more in the last month than I do in some entire semesters. I’m really enjoying getting to spend so much time focusing on learning about many aspects of one place and all that’s happened here. We’ve spent most of our days in class at the university with a wide array of speakers and discussions, examining different aspects of the history of Northern Ireland and the conflict.
They have been long days, but really rewarding in that I feel as though every session brings a new set of questions and constantly challenges what I’m thinking about. In addition, we spent two days on field trips, learning about the cities of Derry and Belfast and speaking with individuals from different communities. The only way to describe the situation and all that we’ve learned is that it’s completely overwhelming and challenging but in a lot of ways really exciting to be able to grapple with so many dimensions of conflict, history, violence, peace, communities, traditions, and so on.
A few notes on Derry/Londonderry (Protestant/Unionists refer to it as Londonderry because it was renamed for the London Company but Catholic/Nationalists just call it Derry and purely because its easier to just write Derry, that’s what I’m doing here): Derry is the second largest city in Northern Ireland but with only about 80,000 people and essentially no buildings over 3 stories high, it feels much more like a large town. Though Derry/Londonderry is mostly Catholic today, the city is very important for Protestants/Unionists because of the Siege of Derry in 1690. In the Siege, Protestants defended the city for over 100 days from a Catholic army with the motto “never surrender.” This mentality is still very strong in the Protestant community in Derry even though the city is majority Catholic today.
We spent time with a local tour guide on the city walls, in the Unionist Fountain housing community, and in the Catholic Bogside. We spent most of our time in the Bogside where we visited the Bloody Sunday memorial, the famous murals of the Bogside Artists’ murals depicting different aspects of the Troubles, the Museum of Free Derry, and had lunch and discussion in a community center promoting healthy living. It was an incredibly moving afternoon that raised many questions about how individuals and communities deal with trauma, violence, and justice. We were definitely all pretty drained but managed to enjoy ourselves on the way back to Portrush in the mini-bus, affectionately dubbed ‘the beast.’ Nigel has been playing music for us on many of the rides we take, speaking about what the songs refer to and where the musicians are coming from. We’ve been listening to a wide array of genres and artists but Wednesday night on our way home, Nigel cranked Semisonic’s “Closing Time” and (nearly) everyone sang along. It’s nice to have a group of people experiencing and processing along with me and I’ve really appreciated the diversity of opinion and perspective in discussions.
Belfast on Wednesday was a very different, but equally as thought-provoking and interesting, experience. We met in the morning with representatives from a Catholic Republican organization that gives political tours of the Falls Road, a Nationalist/Republican heartland. On the tour we visited a number of political murals, memorials, the Sinn Fein headquarters (Sinn Fein is the Nationalist political party), and a cemetery where the Republican plots are. We ate lunch at the Republican Club and had a Q&A with our guide and another representative who are both former IRA political prisoners.
After lunch, we hopped over to the Protestant, Loyalist Shankhill Road neighborhood, directly parallel and very close to the Falls, where we toured the area with a former UVF political prisoner. In the Shankhill, we saw murals, memorials, peace walls, and community spaces that parallel those in the Falls but express a very different sentiment. I think the tours of the Falls and the Shankhill, particularly our experience with our guide in the Shankhill, challenged many of us to think about different perspectives and facets to the conflict. I know I was personally challenged to think about notions of what peace means, the psychology behind being a former prisoner and perpetrator of violence, and the legacy of some of these ideologies and memories. In other words, it was another emotionally and mentally taxing but crucial day that ended with the Beast bumbling back towards Portrush.
This post is crazy, crazy long… I guess the only things left to say are about food and fun:
1. Smarties flavored McFlurries: would be better in Dairy Queen blizzard form.
2. Scones just keep getting better.
3. Mr. Chips fish and chips are going to kill us all.
4. When you ask for a lemonade at a sketchy Chinese restaurant in Portrush, they’ll bring you 7-Up.
5. Last weekend we experienced some serious Northern Irish partygoers both nights out, but particularly at Kelly’s, the dance club we went to Saturday night where one of my flat-mates summed it up best as the most of the girls “look like they left half of their clothes at the Jersey Shore” …
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Castles and Coastlines
Hello loyal blog readers! It feels like months since I last posted but I guess it was really only last week... Since then, we've gone on a retreat, explored the North Coast, and started classes at the University. We took off bright and early Monday morning to the Knockyland branch of an organization called Corrymeela where we spent the next two days. We learned more about Northern Ireland, what we'll be doing here, spent a bunch of time outside looking at sheep and breathing the fresh air, and determined who would be going to which internship site. I'll be going to an environmental action organization in Belfast located on a peace line. I'm not exactly sure what I'll be doing there but I'm really excited to see what they do and how their work is influenced by where they are located.
Last week we had a tourist day of fun and went to the Giant’s Causeway, which was formed by a volcano and basically looks like a huge jetty made entirely out of hexagonal rock pillars. It was beautiful and really great, again, to be right on the sea. After that we had some fish and chips (greasy, fatty, delicious) and went to the Bushmill’s Distillery- the oldest legal whiskey distillery in Ireland. We got a tour and had a sample and while it was cool to hear about and see the process, it wasn’t as exciting as I had imagined. After the distillery, we went to Dunluce Castle.
The castle is on a beautiful cliff overlooking the sea and was built hundreds of years ago. It hasn’t been in use since the 1600’s when the cliff fell into the ocean, taking the kitchen, dinner, and some servants down with it. We had a great tour guide who told us tons about the castle’s history and showed us what parts of the castle would have been used for what purposes. He also told us that one day when it was too windy for tours to see the castle, he and some of his co-workers built a fire in the fireplace and had a barbeque in this castle ruin! Some of us talked about how different that experience was from historical sites in the US. You would never go and just start cooking dinner in Paul Revere’s house or ring the Liberty Bell… it’s interesting to think about how history is just a part of the landscape here. It’s a completely integrated part of the landscape. Naturally, history is a part of the landscape across the US but I think we tend to mark or highlight certain parts of our history as “more historic” than others.
The rest of the week and into this week we have seminars all day at the University. While they are pretty long days (I don’t think I’ve been in a classroom this long since fifth grade practically), I definitely feel like I’m learning a lot- or at least getting a lot of facts about the history of Northern Ireland and the relationships between the different groups here.
One highlight of this weekend was watching the Ireland-France 6 Nations rugby game at one of the bars in Portrush. The tournament has been going on since we got here and I’ve really enjoyed watching the games on TV. I thought rugby would be a lot more like football, but its so much more enjoyable to watch because it doesn’t keep starting and stopping. The players are so fast and there seems to be more teamwork than most other sports I’ve seen. Not to mention the rugby players- on both sides- are not torturous to look at. Ireland lost but I had fun nonetheless and look forward to catching some more matches while we’re here and hopefully going to one myself.
The rest of this week will be more seminars and a visit to Derry/Londonderry where 5 of our group will be interning. I’m excited to be in a city and see some of the places we’ve been talking about and hear more from people outside the classroom. Derry is also pretty famous for its political murals- I’m pretty jazzed. Before we go to Belfast in a few weeks some of the group and I are thinking about going to Galway in the Republic for a few days. It’s supposed to be a really great city, full of young people and live music. Anyone have any good Galway suggestions?
This post is getting pretty long but a little food update: There is a chain grocery/convenience store called Spar where we probably go at least once a day to buy food-which goes quickly given the miniature nature of our fridge...So, digestives: still delicious, still confusingly named. Fish and chips: greasy, delicious, heart disease. On the crisp (re: potato chips) front: salt and vinegar Tayto or HunkyDory chips are most delicious. I’ve tried cheese and onion, bacon, and prawn cocktail. So far I’m just enjoying everything smothered in vinegar. I also had some homemade Irish stew at a cafĂ© in Coleraine- so hearty!